I recently came across a good source that you can check out:  Tego Venturi of Communication Supply Corp. told me that his company could provide supplies to you at contractor's rates (if I understood him correctly). You could check out their web site (click here), or even contact him directly at tventuri@gocsc.com.

Generally speaking, though, here are a few tips: (check these out with Code in your area):

1. TOOLS: Gosh. You need these. Actually, you don't need too much. You'll need a drill with wood "spade" bits (if you can get a cordless you'll thank yourself - I'd recommend 18V or better).

You'll also need a stepladder, plastic "tie wraps" (ask a cabling distributor for these - or Radio Shack if you've got mucho moolah), and either a staple gun or some kind of wire anchors for hanging your cabling.

NOTE from Experience:   If you use a staple gun, BE CAREFUL! LOOK at every staple you fire! It's worth the extra time to verify that you didn't shoot through the cable when you consider the aggravation that could come trying to troubleshoot later. Also be sure that you don't "pinch" the cable too tightly.

2. TRICKS: While you want to keep your wire runs up inside the joists so they will be out of the way of drywall, you can take advantage of water pipes and HVAC ductwork by following them. This will save you a lot of drilling through ceiling joists. Always look for the simplest path!

3. Low-voltage wire cannot be run vertically through cold-air returns, but may be permissible to run horizontally through the chase. Check to see whether you'll need to enclose it in conduit. In commercial construction, your wire would also have to be "plenum" grade, though I personally haven't found this to be an issue residentially.

4. Wait until all the other mechanicals have been completed (electric, HVAC, etc.) to do your runs. I can't tell you how many times I've had to repair my cabling because someone else butchered it with a drill - or just plain cut it because it was "in their way." Of course, having said that, make sure you don't do the same thing. Always check the other side of a stud or wall before you drill.

5. Drill your own holes through studs - don't use the electrician's! You want to keep as far away from his stuff as is practical so that you don't pick up electrical noise.

6. When you're done, you might need to fill the extra space in the holes you drilled with "firestop" (depending on code), which can be found at just about any hardware store. This rule usually only applies to holes drilled vertically inside of walls (through floors and ceilings).

In the next issue, we'll tackle some of the techniques for getting cable where you need it in existing construction. We'll cover how to fish walls, tricks for getting from the basement to the second floor, & a few other things.

IF YOU NEED helpful advice on how to automate your home from start to finish, check out www.integratorpro.com" for my helpful e-book, "Integrating the Smart Home and its Owner." It's packed with step-by-step instructions and specific product recommendations.

Over the years I've found these to be some of the most cost-effective quality alternatives to the high priced systems sold through custom installation companies.

Anyway, I hope that this first issue has proven to be helpful to you. If you aren't building, be sure to read the next issue. We'll cover more things that should be useful to you.

Thanks again for joining us!

Sincerely,

Andy Jackson,
Integratorpro.com